04 – 2010 – Tahiti departure and The Leeward Islands
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Bibi was my main “go to guy”. He was very capable and helpful with the myriad of “BOAT PROJECTS” that were accomplished in Tahiti. BONUS, he spoke very good English.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Stanley on the right and Bibi on the left. Stanley is a professional Captain and our neighbor. His English Grandfather was stranded on the Atoll of Suwarrow for three years near the turn of the 19th Century. He too was extremely helpful and friendly in our Tahiti stay. Here, they are waving goodbye as we leave Tahiti.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Rico, like Bibi was a professional boat guy and also very friendly and helpful during our stay in Papeete.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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As we left Marina Taina, our home for 7 MONTHS!….We saw the sights one sees everyday in French Polynesia. Outrigger Canoes.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is “hotel row” at Marina Taina. We’d see several of these boats again in our ventures through the “Iles sous les vents” (The islands under the wind) also known here at the “Leeward Islands”.
Leeward is the nautical term meaning downwind.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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These “Tiki Hut” boats are actually homes. They usually have an outboard engine and one room. Some of them are tied to docks at homes and they use the sort of as local party RV’s….
Pretty cool.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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It’s always a bit of nervous time when entering or exiting the reef systems of the South Pacific. Often very strong currents can be going against tide or waves. Here, we see the channel just south of Marina Taina at a strong ebb going against the surf. It can be pretty exciting. We think the most exciting one are yet ahead in Maupiti, Mopelia (our last islands in French Polynesia) and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Here, I’m on lookout and Cindy is using our two nice strong engines to power out of the flood. You can see the surfers enjoying the break just to the south of our exit. A bit unnerving at times.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Our first goal would be our third trip to the beautiful sister island to Tahiti…..Moorea. Located only 9 nautical miles across the “Sea of the Moon”, it had been our constant view (GORGEOUS) daily from Marina Taina for the last 7 months.
Tahiti – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Stunning and seen in many films about the South Seas, Sharks Tooth (the translation) over looking Oponohu Bay, Moorea. Note the reef breaking on the left. HERE IN FRENCH POLYNESIA for you sailors, RED IS ON THE LEFT when returning from the sea. Just the opposite of how it is in the USA. But that’s another story!
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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I’m again on lookout and Cindy drives in to Moorea’s Oponohu Bay where we will get in a week’s diving if possible.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We arrived in Moorea to the site of a youth program sailing Opti type dinghies..
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This small boat was one of the victims of Cylone OLI, a catagory FIVE hurricane that never got closer than 170 miles from Moorea. Nonetheless, this boat dragged anchor and was abandoned in Oponohu Bay.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This sailing MEGA YACHT, “Erica XII” was quite a beauty in Oponohu Bay. Around 140 feet, she had all the accommodations and a fully staffed crew.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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No, I didn’t photoshop “Beach House” to red. This is our younger sister, Switch #12, “Tatajuba” with here French owners aboard. There were 14 Switches made and soon, we’d be in the company of TWO others.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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“Tatajuba” in the foreground and “Beach House” in the background. The beautiful peak of Sharks Tooth in Oponohu Bay in the distance.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is the bay that Captain Cook actually visited (not his name sake, “Cooks Bay” next door). Also, Jimmy Buffett tells the tale of how he wrote his wonderful song, “One Particular Harbor” while visiting this bay.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is our little toot rent a car. You’d be shocked at what these cost for a day. Around 90.00 USD for 4 hours. For a true introduction to sticker shock…..try Tahiti and her islands!
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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From Moorea, it’s only 9 miles to the west to Tahiti. Moorea’s East Lagoon in the foreground.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We rented a car and took an island drive of Moorea. It only takes about 3 hours, but quite a beautiful ride.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This (I think) is a Sofitel. Rooms around 350-1000.00 USD/night. Beautiful and oh what price paradise.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is Sea Wolf, whom we first met in Barra de Navidad, Mexico. Adam, wife and baby (one year old!) sailed here from Mexico. We missed them while off boat visiting relatives somewhere and she’s for sale. We hear they are looking for a bigger boat!….
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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These random phone booths are over most of the islands of French Polynesia. We’re not even certain they work anymore but they do seem so out of place. Cell phones are the predominant form of communication here, just like the rest of the world. I always expect Maxwell Smart to appear out of one of these at any moment…..
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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There are lots of roadside homes that sell fruits and home grown vegetables right on the side of the road. Often at pretty good value and more important, good quality.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We found this group of heavy equipment. What you see is less than 1/2 of it. It was obvious that none of it had been used in years as it was all strangled in these vines.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Belvedere in French means “view point” and this is the spectacular view point of Moorea.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is the famous view point of both the two bays, Cooks to the right and Oponohu to the left. They are at least a 1/2 mile deep each. Moorea is shaped like a catchers mitt with these two beautiful deep bays on the north side of the island.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is where we anchored Beach House when we needed to go to the market and rent the car. Captain Cook it is believed actually never anchored here despite it’s being named for him. The UC Berkley Marine Lab is located just around the left side of the mountain in the photo.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is where it is believed Captain Cook anchored, in the beautiful Oponohu Bay. We spent several days diving in the pass and just to the right side of the reef outside the pass. LOTS of lemon sharks. Unfortunately, between the crown of thorn starfish infestation and Cyclone OLI, the reef in the shallows looks like a granite quarry.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Cindy took a short walk at the Belvedere and found this bread fruit sapling. (I think it’s a bread fruit?).
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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On our drive, we got to stop and take this photo. As you can see, it’s a popular spot.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We kept the dinghy at the original bungalow hotel. Formerly the “Bali Hai”, it’s now a chain of Hilton’s we think.
I brought the dinghy up and Cindy scooted over using their dive boat as a platform.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We had a date with friends Clark Massad and Vincent Laurentin flying all the way from Paris by way of LA. We were to meet them in two days and wanted to get a head start on being early.
Happily, Clark and Vincent were also bringing us care packages from LA to repair various stuff on Beach House.
Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Clark and Vincent were delayed in their flight to Los Angeles from Paris by the Icelandic Volcano. So now we’ve had earthquakes, tsunami’s and volcanos interrupt us. (Sounds like a Jimmy Buffet song!). They flew into Tahiti, stayed the night and flew to Huahine to meet us the next morning. Arrival by cab from the airport….5 minutes.
Huahine – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We hadn’t seen Clark and Vincent since we attended their wedding at the Del Coronado Hotel in San Diego in 2008. We drove 17 hours up the Baja Peninsula to get there!
Huahine – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Clark and Vincent in the bow seats, Raiatea in the background.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We had a generator oil hose leak and only spent a few days in Huahine as we wanted the mechanic in Raiatea to do the fix it as well as have their refrigeration technician take a look at our stuck evaporator plate…..Thank you Alan Rosner for your technical support from Los Angeles….Pale Ale to follow….
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We took advantage of our “dock time” to hit the local market, “Champion’s in Raiatea.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Tahaa – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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After a day of diving, we stayed the night at the moorings at Taravana Yacht Club. More a private restaurant and small Pension (family hotel). It’s run by an ex-pat American on the island of Tahaa which shares the lagoon with Raiatea.
Tahaa – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We were in Raiata’s capital, Uturoa on a Sunday. This was the day we would tour the island by car. We heard these amazing voices coming out of this church and went to listen to hymns in French and Tahitian.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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1956
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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On our drive, we got this spectacular overview of Huahine, 25 miles to the East.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We went to the highest point a road would let us drive too for some spectacular scenery.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Hey, not bad for 56 and 50 uh? I’ve lost 51 lbs. since leaving Marina del Rey. Most of which was due to a diet change less than 4 months ago. 232 lbs in LA, 181 as of this writing.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Here’s the teaser. We sat next to Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell here for lunch. I took flight school with Kurt 22 years ago and daughter Skye once did jury duty with him. They’re looking (or at least he is) to lease their own “motu” (small outer reef island) somewhere in the area. The meal was the best we’d had anywhere in French Polynesia at a restaurant. SEE THE NEXT GALLERY “CLARK & VINCENT’S GALLERY” FOR THE FULL STORY…….
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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In the left foreground is “Tatajuba”, the right rear is “Na Maka”, (Switch #2). In all the world, only 14 Switches were made and here we had THREE in the same anchorage at Raiatea Shipyard.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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With custom stripes on her mast, she makes a statement and is “noticed”. These are the original owners from France.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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The second of the tall salon Switches (our’s was the first), “Tatajuba’s” original owners were in escrow to sell their lovely boat to an American from San Francisco. Soon she’ll be sailing to Puerto Vallarta.
Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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With Tahaa as our backdrop, we day sailed to Bora Bora…….Can you just hear “Some Enchanted Evening”?
Tahaa – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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With Bora Bora in the back, (perhaps one of the most recognizable islands in the world), we sailed along the western reef toward the Bora Bora Yacht Club.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bora Bora will do this to most anyone!….:)
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Well not really, but the view does evoke King Kong and Faye Wray on a beautiful day in the South Pacific. You can see the marker noting the SW corner of the outer reef. We turned north here to the islands one and only entrance passage.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We immediately started diving. We went with Gilles, Fred and Patrick of Blue Nui Diving. This was the same company we dove with in Manihi, Tuamotus. We had two good days of diving with Clark before he and Vincent had to return to Paris. Patrick is in the back left……Teaser, you’ll want to see a few photos of his “motorcycle accident” in the Bora Bora UNDERWATER gallery…..Can you spell shark bite!….?
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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As you all know, my passion/hobby is anything to do with underwater photography. I wear the head scarf as to not have my folliculary challenged head from getting burned. Gilles is in the photo with me, he was a great dive guide.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is the Oyster 66 “Fuerte” of London. They have an American owner from Rancho Santa Fe and we became fast friends with the crew, William and Jubee (Julia).
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We were so sorry we didn’t get to spend more time with this lovely and very diligent, competent duo. They keep “Fuerte” in tip top shape. William offered advice and provided a vacuum pump to repair our refrigeration system.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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After our arrival, we dropped Clark and Vincent off at the Pearl Beach Hotel where they spent several fabulous days before leaving home for Paris. The chick looks pretty good, don’t you think?
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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On a private “motu” (small reef island), this exclusive hotel has spectacular views, accommodations and great beach. C&V chose a great room too!
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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The four of us took a drive around the island. The big attraction here is the view, the motu hotels and the diving. The main island (except for King Kong mountain there in the background) is quite a disappointment. Fortunately the company was superb!
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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The lovely Miss Cindy adorned by the local flora…..
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Hey, these boats are really getting around……This is the anchorage where we spent the night at the finish of the Hawaikii Nui Va’a outrigger canoe race last October.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Famous from the movie “South Pacific”, a local entrepreneur took advantage of the name and created a very nice scenic restaurant. Complete with sparkling white sand floors.
We stopped for desert, wish we’d done lunch here as the restaurant we did do lunch at was to say the least; best forgotten.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Bloody Mary’s wasn’t shy about putting up virtual billboards to mention their famous guests.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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For fun, you might be able to enlarge these on your computer to see the “R&F” (rich and famous). Note Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn are on this board (second from the right, just up from the bottom).
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Check your shoes/sandals here.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This is one of the two markets in Bora Bora. We took advantage of our car day to “stock up”. After this island, the picking will be very slim for many weeks to come.
The markets on Raiatea and Huahine were far superior with Huahine being our favorite.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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This was our little rent a car. 4 hours…..150.00 USD…..NICE!……
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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On Clark and Vincent’s last night, we decided to join them for the hotel’s Polynesian dancing show…..Cocktails of course!
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Vincent was pretty good when he got into the act.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Our group posed for photos at the end of the shindig.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We did get another chance the next morning to see Clark and Vincent, but will really miss them. They were great guests and good friends. Hope to see them again down the line. Perhaps New Caledonia? After all, they both speak fluent French and that was a big help.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Back to our reality…..We stayed for over two weeks at the Bora Bora Yacht Club (bar and rebuilding restaurant from Cyclone OLI).
The anchorages here are very deep, typically 80-90 feet. So mooring to a fixed block on the bottom is a prudent option versus using our anchor gear. The price was right (unusual for French Polynesia) and the young couple (he’s Tahitian, she’s American) do a nice job.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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We took some of our jerry cans to the fuel dock and on the way back, this young guy hitched a ride and did acrobatics to entertain us en route.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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The ARC is the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers. They run an annual event of almost 200 boats across the Atlantic from the Canary Islands to St. Lucia in the Caribbean. Every two years, they have an 18 month fast track circumnavigation scheduled and we happened to be here in Bora Bora when they came through. About 30 boats, 4 were from the US. Most were from Germany.
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Today is our 17th anniversary and Cindy couldn’t resist the puppy at Bora Bora Yacht Club…..Hope he doesn’t have fleas!…….
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia
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Jessica of the Bora Bora Yacht Club took our 17th anniversary photo…..Our next gallery will be Clark & Vincent’s photos, taken by them, chosen by Cindy and developed by Scott…..
Next stop for Beach House, the island of Maupiti…..30 miles to the west of Bora Bora and one of those tricky pass entries. We’ll wait for the right weather window and go. We hear there is very good diving and it’s like Bora Bora 40-50 years ago…..We’ll keep you posted….YOU keep in touch!…..Scott and Cindy
Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia